TWO BEACH WALKS


TARKARLI
i discovered this because it's a nice stopover if you're driving or riding down to goa. you can leave bombay in the morning, reach tarkarli by afternoon, spend the rest of the day and half of the next there and in malvan, and hit goa by day 2 evening.

turn off NH17 at kasal. take the SH to malvan. tarkarli is 7km south of malvan.
like most of konkan, the SH is a lovely ride.


there's a long stretch of undeveloped beachfront (very clean too) stretching from malvan in the north, passing thru tarkarli and upto deobagh in the south. if you're looking for the buzz which you find on the goa beaches this is NOT the place to go to. its truly quiet with very few tourists. you'll only find village dogs to keep you company on the walk, fisherfolk doing what fisherfolk do and village kids playing cricket (all of them are notorious chuckers... i didn't see a single proper overarm delivery).

once it's dark the only comforting light in the distance is from the MTDC tourist resort which is also the place to stay. it's online here.
they have double rooms and 5 bed dorms for 1100 per night.

THE SALCETTE STRETCH
central goa. NH17 or trains to madgaon. head west.
superb and unending stretch of beach.

i usually stay at benaulim because :
it's in the middle
it's close to madgaon
it's less crowded and much quieter
and
i've been there so many times i'm familiar with it.

from benaulim beach you can walk either northwards (to colva, betalbatim and onwards) or south (to varca, cavelossim).

a nice bookshop in madgaon called Confidant Book Shop, Confidant House, behind the Lawrence & Mayo shop, very close to the central garden. tel 2732450,2725208

there's tons of goa resources for info so i won't bother.

RAMZAN FOOD WALK - BOMBAY


we did this one two years ago with a guide.. a 4 hour eat-walk starting from byculla station and ending at suleiman usman mithaiwalla on mohammed ali road. our guide, zenab, knew the area quite well so apart from the food a lot of interesting architecture and local history was pointed out to us.

this year we didn't have zenab so the proportion of experience was skewed towards the food.
nonetheless :
starting point : hotel sarvi opposite nagpada police station... the kebabs are amongst the best i've had in bombay, the dabba gosht and rotis are good too. so is the chai if the chai drinkers are to be believed.
exit sarvi on the side oppo the police station and start walking south.
next pit stop : around 300m down on the right, there's a halisa (halim/khichda) setup. not to miss. excellent. i saw several of these further on as well.
next pit stop : bori mohallah : several kebab and tandoor places here. you will come back here for the dessert. we didn't eat here this time... age has caught up with us and we were saving our appetites for ...
next pit stop : surti handi , next to zenaibi hall .. just ask your way there, its right next to bor.mol. very nice barah (12) handi here. also nalli nihari (mutton not beef and not a patch on the delhi stuff but nonetheless) and paya.
back to : bori mohalla for malpua and firni at tawakkal sweets (the mango firni was surprisingly nice) and sitaphal icecream at the shop next door.

burp.

pics here.